A Guide To Clinical Skincare For Darker Skin - From Choosing The Right Practitioner To Which At-Home Tech Is Safe (2025)

For the well-versed skincare lover, the kind that can deftly distinguish between a toner and an essence and bookmarks their Sunday with a ceramide face mask, the move towards clinical treatments and skin tech is often a natural progression.

From lasers to red light therapy, over the past decade, the clinical skincare industry has been filled with new iterations of technologies developed to boost and support skin longevity.

Decoding new clinical treatments and understanding new ingredients as they relate to your unique skincare routine can be a daunting task for anyone. However, for people with skin that falls into the 4,5,6 Fitzpatrick scale category, figuring out how to safely and effectively access skincare products and treatments can feel doubly mystifying.

'Will this treatment trigger hyperpigmentation?' 'If laser hair removal wasn’t initially suitable for darker skin tones, why should I trust it now?' More often than not, it’s hard to find clear advice that provides an answer to these common concerns.

To debunk some of the myths, we've spoken to some of the best experts in the business to get the full lowdown on the state of clinical skincare for darker skin tones right now.

Meet The Experts

• Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Founder And Medical Director Of Adonia Medical Clinic
• Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, NHS GP and award-winning aesthetics doctor

Why Were So Many Clinical Treatments Initially Not Accessible For Dark Skin Tones?

'Historically, many aesthetic technologies were developed based on studies conducted on lighter skin tones. As a result, early-generation laser and chemical peel technologies lacked the research needed for them to be accessible for darker skin types,' explains Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Founder and Medical Director of Adonia Medical Clinic. For example, ‘many worked using the principle of selective photothermolysis, which, put simply, means that earlier lasers were not as good at differentiating shades of brown or worked by placing a lot of heat on the skin, which could be detrimental for darker skin types.’

This inability to differentiate led to an increased risk of complications such as burns, scarring, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation for people with darker skin tones, so for many years, standard advice about these treatments left darker skin tone patients at a loss. Similarly, adds Dr Ejikeme ‘many early chemical peel formulations relied on strong acids that disrupted the skin barrier and triggered pigment changes in darker skin.’

Now, it’s easy to attribute this gap in research to an inherent unsuitability, built into the formulas and technologies used for procedures like lasers and peels, but according to Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, NHS GP and award-winning aesthetics doctor, the answer is far more complex.

‘To be frank, many brands were a little bit uncomfortable with going out and seeking specifically darker tone individuals, to test [early iteration] these treatments and equally, many people from black and brown communities, still face a significant amount of stigma around using clinical treatments’, says Dr El Muntasar. ‘Unfortunately, for many years, it was a cat and mouse game, one that led to confusing outcomes and information for dark skin patients. However, since 2020, noted the aesthetics expert, we’ve seen a big shift with testing, information and care. From guidance on how to find lasers that don’t generate the level of heat that creates inflammatory hyperpigmentation when absorbed by melanocytes [the cell that makes your skin produce more melanin]. To better aftercare pamphlets and studies, there’s still much to be done, but the industry has made massive strides.’

What Are Some Of The Changes That Have Been Made To Make Clinical Treatments More Accessible?

'Right now, most clinics will have devices developed with Nd:YAG and Diode lasers to allow better control of energy delivery, reduced risk of heat damage, which in turn makes it easier to tailor treatment for melanin-rich skin.’ says Dr Ejikeme. ‘As devices are increasingly being designed with settings and mechanisms that consider the unique characteristics of Fitzpatrick 4, 5, 6 skin, it’s also reinforced by a shift in clinical education.’

The growing commitment within the industry to representation in clinical trials has also meant more data on the efficacy and safety concerns for diverse skin types. So with better treatment protocols, more inclusive product formulations, ultimately, says Dr Ejikeme, we are now seeing ‘a higher standard of care across the board’.

When delving into the science, Dr Ejikeme, credits this new understanding of the spectrum of care that can be provided to darker skin patients to a few advancements.

‘There’s been an increased use of regenerative techniques, such as exosomes, radiofrequency microneedling, and biostimulators,’ all of which the Founder of Adonia Medical Clinic explains ‘offer powerful results by harnessing the skin’s natural healing abilities to encourage strengthening and rebuilding from within’

Rather than the aggressive resurfacing that we now know often triggers negative outcomes on darker skin, Dr Ejikeme says that ‘many of these treatments focus on stimulating the skin’s own healing and collagen production mechanisms without triggering excessive inflammation or pigment response, which makes them particularly well suited for darker skin tones.’

Are Skin Consultations Different For People With Dark Skin Tones?

Yes and no, explains Dr El Muntasar. More often than not, bias has affected the way that dark skin patients can access treatments, so a lot of the consultation work says ‘it’s about going back to basics’.

‘I remember once a professor at medical school remarked that skin cancer isn’t racist, people are, and it’s informed a lot of my understanding of how to treat darker skin tones,’ says Dr El Muntasar.

‘You’d be surprised but across both side of the fence [patients and aesthetic doctor] you’ll still find that many myths around dark skin are still so prevalent, for example the idea that darker skin tones don't blush or burn, can affect the way that both the provider and the patient interact with the signs of post-inflammatory trauma.’

Due to this, the founder of The Aesthetics Doctor Clinic, says, ‘It’s important to remember that, as with all skin, it's a marathon, not a sprint. Skin prep is vital, so often with any treatment that involves heat, laser, for example wouldn't be administered on the same day. Instead, that first session often ends with them leaving with a complete plan - hydration and even a retinol - to make sure we start on a solid skin foundation.

Both experts note that they favour a holistic approach when aiming for the best results for darker skin patients.

‘I’ve found that many of the skin conditions that patients present with can be linked to other conditions that are more prevalent in certain communities’ says Dr El Muntasar. ‘For example, if you have issues with your thyroid, that can have skin manifestations, mostly with pigmentation, and so a holistic consultation allows you to properly align your care.’

For anyone that still feels conflicted about clinical treatments, Dr Ejikeme assures that ‘it is entirely understandable to feel hesitant [during a consultation], especially when you consider the long history of exclusion and caution that has surrounded darker skin tones in the aesthetics industry. For far too long, people with Fitzpatrick 4 to 6 skin were told that certain treatments simply were not safe for them. That legacy left many feeling unsure or even fearful of pursuing advanced skincare options.’

As it stands, however, the reality today is different. So to feel safe and confident in your consultation, Dr Ejikeme advises that ‘you seek out a practitioner who has a deep understanding of melanin-rich skin; someone who sees your skin not as a challenge, but as a priority. Ask questions. Look for clinics that celebrate inclusivity and can show real results for diverse skin tones. The landscape has changed, and we now have the science, tools, and training to deliver results safely. There’s no need to compromise.’

What In-Clinic Treatments Can I Have If I Have Darker Skin?

‘We see all manner of patient requests at The Aesthetics Doctor Clinic’, says Dr El Muntasa, from nonsurgical rhinoplasties to chin fillers for facial harmonisation, despite the cultural stigma that has been linked to these types of treatment, patients now are embracing the fact that there are many options out there that won’t eradicate the uniqueness of your face and features’

Currently, says Dr El Muntasa, ‘we’ve had a lot of popularity with Mayfair facial and Harmony bioboost treatments, protocols that have multiple different modalities and involve treatment stacking, injectables and topicals working together.’

At Adonia Medical Clinic, Dr Ejikeme tells ELLE UK, some of the most requested treatments included ‘customised chemical peels using ingredients such as mandelic acid or azelaic acid, chosen for their ability to gently brighten the skin and fade discolouration without triggering inflammation.’ Along with the SmartPico laser, which the MD notes, ‘has become one of the most requested lasers as it can safely address hyperpigmentation in every skin tone with no downtime.’

At-Home Treatments For Darker Skin Tones

Acids And Exfoliants On Dark Skin At Home

‘This is one of the areas that is still very complex when addressing skin concerns for darker skin types, ’ says Dr El Muntasa. ‘I find that for patients from black and brown communities, when discussing some of the more advanced acid options - hydroquinone, tretinoin or glycolic acid, there are a lot of concerns around bleaching. However, in smaller doses under medical supervision, it can be a great medical-grade treatment option for hyperpigmentation.

Similarly, when discussing exfoliants, Dr El Muntasa, many patients are more than informed on the best options for physical exfoliants via washcloths and exfoliant sponges, so my advice tends to be more about how not to over-exfoliate. If you’re using a physical exfoliant and a chemical exfoliant, you’re more prone to microtraumas on your face and body, so if you’re going for the glycolic, it’s best to wash it off with water rather than a cloth.

IPL On Dark Skin

‘While the rise of at-home skincare technology has empowered many to take charge of their skin health, it is important to approach these tools with care, especially for those with melanin-rich skin,’ says Dr Ejikeme. ‘At-home IPL devices, for example, often lack the customisable settings and safety mechanisms needed to treat Fitzpatrick 4 to 6 skin safely. These devices are typically designed for a narrower range of skin tones, and when used incorrectly, they can cause burns, blistering, or uneven pigmentation. So unfortunately, they are still ones to avoid.’

At Home LED On Darker Skin

‘Similarly, not all LED masks are created equal’, Dr Ejikeme tells ELLE UK Many do not undergo rigorous testing on darker skin tones and may not deliver the correct wavelengths at clinically effective intensities. Even microcurrent devices, which are generally considered low risk, can cause irritation or sensitivity if not used with the right technique or paired with appropriate skincare.’

‘I recommend choosing devices that follow scientific literature on the appropriate frequencies for diverse skin types. For example, the ZKIN LED Mask was designed to be safe and effective for all skin tones, including Fitzpatrick 4 to 6, using red, blue, and near-infrared light to support skin health, reduce inflammation, and enhance glow without triggering pigment disruption.’

For anyone exploring at-home treatments, the founder of Adonia Medical Clinic advises that you start with a solid skincare foundation that supports the barrier and prioritises hydration.’ Consulting with a knowledgeable practitioner can also help tailor the right at-home approach to complement professional treatments and maintain long-term skin health.

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